What do you think about Zeitwinkel? In the event that you’ve been around the watch business for some time, odds are you’ve seen or known about this little, free Swiss brand sooner or later. Its most renowned model, the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé with its unmistakable smoked sapphire dial, is a fine envoy for the brand. For reasons unknown, it’s likewise something of an allegory for the brand’s presence…

The Zeitwinkel brand has waited on the edge of my awareness for a long time now. The 273° Saphir Fumé has glided all through my brain, a phantom figure discreetly continuing on ahead in a universe of uproarious brands and pompous watches. The watch, similar to the actual brand, is something of an under-the-radar exemplary really taking shape, offering a bizarre (however satisfactory) style, an extraordinary assembling development, and a shockingly sensible cost thinking about the measure of work done in-house. In any case, it isn’t also known as it ought to be. Like that less-well known than-it-has the right to-be dial, the brand is smoke. An inquisitive and compelling thought that exists on the edges of the standard. Let’s bring a more profound plunge into it for this week’s Topic of the Week…

From the shadows…

Founded in 2006, Zeitwinkel is furiously autonomous. Thusly, the brand has all the points of interest and disservices of not being related with a huge gathering. It has free rein. It is its own lord. However, it doesn’t have the monetary clout or multi-channel cross-fertilization limit of a conglomerate.

Zeitwinkel items start at around the €6,500 mark. That places it directly in the center of an extravagance combat area, with large numbers of our #1 brands working inside the 5-10k section moreover. That’s not to say a brand shouldn’t plunge into this section when it has valid justification to. However, it is to say that those reasons must be excellent in reality. Thus how does a little, unpretentious brand like Zeitwinkel envision it can go head to head with these industry Goliaths?

Finding your specialty and figuring out how to misuse it

“Zeitwinkel” signifies “time point” in German, an estimation used to decide the genuine nearby time at a given area. In English, it sounds nearly cutesy, yet there’s nothing “cute” about the Zeitwinkel cycle or its items. These are not kidding watches. Assembling developments created from German silver are the genuine stars of the show.

Perhaps the motivation behind why that smoked sapphire dial of the 273° Saphir Fumé addresses me so much is a result of the development it shyly uncovers. I’m a colossal enthusiast of German watchmaking. My specific shortcoming? German silver. I revere it in customary Glashütte developments and wish its utilization was more inescapable in the industry.

While it is accessible from a couple of German brands, it is more extraordinary to see it utilized by a Swiss Maison. Also, as German as the Zeitwinkel name sounds and regardless of that a portion of the components — including the equilibrium — come from Germany, the brand is enthusiastically Swiss. So what we have here is a Swiss brand with a genuine German vibe. Also, that vibe isn’t limited to the developments. No, the cases and dials additionally have a beautiful Germanic style to them. Consider me interested…

Doing things a certain way

All Zeitwinkel watches are controlled by “proprietary in-house calibers”, as the actual brand clarifies. These are gathered at the brand’s Saint-Imier base camp (Rue Pierre Jolissaint 35, 2610 Saint-Imier, Switzerland). What’s more, to be very blunt, they are truly something. It took the Zeitwinkel group four years of innovative work to come up with these types and, I should say, that resembles time well spent.

Let’s take the development in the 273° Saphir Fumé for instance. This type, named ZW0103, is a programmed, large date (at 11 o’clock) component with a little seconds dial at 6. The development has a hacking capacity, a speedy set date, a force save marker, a 72-hour run time, a Glucydur balance, and a working recurrence of 28,800vph. The plates and extensions are done with a combination of anglage, Geneva striping, perlaging, and radial brushing (on the wheels).

On the wrist

The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé itself estimates 42.5mm across and stands 13.8mm tall on the wrist. The sapphire sandwich development guarantees clear perspectives from the two sides. The smoked sapphire dial truly adds to the watch’s shine in characteristic light, which I appreciate playing with. Differentiating completes on a case water-impervious to 50 meters, alongside an actually strongly machined crown make this piece an exquisite and strangely flexible watch.

I surely think it works better in a more proper setting, yet the delicate quality of the dark sapphire dial implies it looks fine against more loosened up textures like pants or cotton. Essentially, you don’t need to commit to wearing a fleece three-piece nonstop if this tasteful offers to you, however I should let it out seems as though it would be particularly at home in Frankfurt’s monetary region, testing (really) German brand Sinn for head honcho nearby. The cost of the lead 273° Saphir Fumé is €13,500. Get familiar with the brand .