Often times the uncelebrated yet truly great individuals of the watch business are the development makers. Few out of every odd brand has the ability to make in-house developments (or dials, cases, arm band besides). This is the point at which a development producer comes into play. As you most likely are aware the biggest companies nowadays cooking for the entire business are ETA (company of Swatch Group), Sellita and Seiko. Obviously, numerous different brands offer types from Switzerland, Japan Germany and a lot of different nations. Brands re-appropriating developments, be that as it may, is certifiably not another thing. It has been going on since the start of times. Simply think about the early Panerai watches which had Rolex developments inside them. To remain with Rolex, we have all seen the costs of the supposed “Peak Daytonas” (Rolex Daytonas with a Zenith El Primero chronograph development) soaring lately. Those Zenith developments were likewise utilized by Ebel and Movado for instance, yet we’ve additionally seen them in watches from TAG Heuer and (once more) Panerai.
Some vintage watches available are more blazing than others essentially as a result of the development inside them. Peak bi-compax chronographs that the Yugoslavian Air Force utilized has an Excelsior Park development inside them. The watch looks nothing exceptional; a pleasant enormous 37mm case, steel, dark dial chronograph. Gatherers love them however – somewhat – for what’s inside the situation. Early Speedmasters have the Omega type 321 inside. On the off chance that you are a regular peruser of Fratello – or a vintage Omega fan as a rule – you likely realize that the 321 is a Lémania (type 2310) development. The Swiss development maker was among the top companies to make types for different brands. Beside that, they delivered their own watches under their company name; Lémania. The greater part of the watch shared cases, dials (beside the logo) and, in particular, development with Tissot and Omega. The present watch is one such model, the Lémania ref. 174 vintage chronograph.
In 1930 Tissot and Omega shaped an association and set up SSIH as in Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère (Swiss Association for the Watchmaking Industry). This array was the base that would become the Swatch Group numerous years after the fact. Their goal was to help each other’s business and through that improve their own. Lémania would join SSIH two years after the fact, in 1932. Lemania was set up in 1884 by Alfred Lugrin. The company bore his name, Lugrin SA, until 1930 when his child in-law Marius Meylan renamed it to Lémania Watch Co. They didn’t just make developments yet looks also under their own name. The arrangement between Omega, Tissot, and Lémania was that the last would supply developments to the initial two. Omega would focus on the extravagance portion and Tissot would remain in the mid section. Developments would come from Lémania which could likewise make and brand their own watches.
And now we at long last show up at my Lémania ref. 174 tri-compax vintage chronograph. Just like the instance of numerous vintage watches, this is no monster either regarding size. The case gauges precisely 35mm, barring the crown. The haul tip to carry tip length is 41.6mm which permits the watch to have an extremely proportioned look on the wrist. My wrist is 7.5″ so anything underneath 36mm looks somewhat little on me. At the point when I got the watch, I put it on a vintage dabs of-rice arm band. While the look was extraordinary, on my wrist it seemed like I was wearing a woman’s watch. In this way, I returned to a calfskin tie (18mm carry size). What a distinction a lash can make. Incidentally, Tissot and Omega additionally utilized a similar case back in the days. You can remember them by a similar siphon pushers and huge crown.
So much so I even saw Tissot chronographs with a similar ref. 174 as my Lémania has. I have an Omega ref. CK 2451, a chronograph, that gatherers are clearly acquainted with. It is a watch we can connect with various flying corps and other aeronautical affiliations. That Omega has precisely the same case, blade hands and, obviously, development as my watch. The case is straightforward, steel with no insane slanting (other than one ornamental line of the hauls). The carries are bored, a common act of the occasions that makes the lash changing too simple. Screw on the off chance that back with no engraving outwardly except for the reference number (Lémania ref. 174) within just as the engraving of the producer, “Lémania Watch Co, Swiss”.
27 CHRO C12
Inside my Lémania ref. 174 untruths the unbelievable tri-copax type 27 CHRO. It filled in as a base for Omega’s similarly amazing type 321 (as we composed here) just as numerous different developments. The official assignment is 27 (referring to the measurement of the development in millimeters) CHRO (for chronograph) C12 (for 12-hour recorder). The 27 CHRO had a wide range of type assignments (in view of the development’s highlights) the most utilized is presumably the name “type 2520”. This would refer to a 27 CHRO development with Inca coalition and 12-hour totalizator (C12). The actual development is a 17-Jewel, manual breeze chronograph type. It has around 44 hours of force hold and 18.000vph. The Lémania ref. 174, just as each other 27 CHRO watch, ought to have 3 sub dials. At 3 the 30-minute counter, at 6 o’clock the 12-hour and at 9 o’clock you can locate the constant seconds subdial.
We previously spoke somewhat about the dial format above. For a somewhat little dial the Lémania ref. 174 has a great deal going on. Other than the three subdials (two for the chronograph, one for the seconds) the dial likewise has a tachymeter scale. Since my Lémania is coming from the US market (like the import code on the development recommends; BOL representing Bernard S. Lipmann as the shipper) the estimation of the scale is in miles and not kilometers. This is often the situation with US market versus European market watches. The Lemania logo is under 12 o’clock with practically every one of the 12 numerals on the dial canvassed in radium. Just 3-6-9 are absent because of the subdials. My Lémania’s dial built up a delightful practically even earthy colored tone, some may call tropical. I’m genuinely certain the base shade of the dial used to be white.
Small chronographs like the Lémania ref. 174 were not that mainstream until a couple of years prior. You could get one at a genuinely ease. These days with the vintage market blasting, they will in general bring a greater cost. For evident reasons, Omega models are the most costly and keeping in mind that Tissots are more normal, Lémania models began to get up to speed in costs because of their relative extraordinariness. In the event that you have a more modest wrist or the watch’s size doesn’t trouble you, it’s a decent watch to have. The development inside isn’t just amazing yet in addition bulletproof. My watch presumably comes from the 1940s which were the most years for these watches. Later on, bigger models went to the market. This Lémania ref. 174 anyway with its penetrated drags, matured dial and blued hands is just about as exquisite as a vintage chronograph gets.