In 2018 Porsche Design introduced a moderate chronograph in an irregular tone, driven by their restrictive flyback caliber.
My interest in Porsche Design was initiated by the Porsche Design by IWC Ocean 2000 watch. That model had additionally been the watch that propelled my more significant interest in mechanical watches. It took some time until that watch discovered its way into my assortment. In any case, that’s another story. Let’s inspect the 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather.
A piece of history
The first watch conveying the name Porsche Design had been worked by Orfina in 1972. That was the Chronograph 1. The exceptional trait of that watch was its tone — it was matte dark all finished. Case, wristband, and dial were all showing that tone, which was very surprising at that time.
In 1977 the well known coordinated effort with IWC began. Aside from the Ocean 2000, presumably the most popular watch from that period is the Titanium Chronograph. The name as of now shows the fundamental trait of the watches that came about because of that joint effort: Titanium as material for cases and wristbands. The contact with IWC finished in 1995.
The same year Porsche Design procured Eterna , which assembled Porsche Design watches from that point on. In spite of the amazing (and astonishingly costly) Indicator, a mechanical chronograph with a computerized show (numbers rather than hands) of slipped by time, which the brand introduced in 2004, it watches from Porsche Design were delivered less as often as possible. In 2007 this cooperation brought about the Worldtimer, a progressive pragmatic idea to deal with various time regions. This watch previously had a case that is very like that of this article’s subject — the 1919 Chronotimer arrangement. From 2010 Eterna created re-releases of popular early Porsche Design watch models. In 2011 Porsche Design offered Eterna to the Chinese Haidian Group (today named Citychamp Watch & Jewelry Group, who likewise claims Corum ), and the creation of Porsche Design watches stopped.
In 2014 Porsche Design at long last assumed control over the creation of watches by establishing the Porsche Design Timepieces AG with base camp in Solothurn, Switzerland.
1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown
The most particular element you notice, when taking a gander at the 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown, is the shade of the dial. Dull chocolate brown is a tone that you infrequently experience on watches — particularly sports chronographs. For Porsche Design — a brand better known for a shading plan basically comprising of dark and titanium — the utilization of brown is right around an infringement of shows. Yet, similar to the well known blue dials, a brown dial makes a lesser difference than dark or white.
The second extraordinary component of the 1919 Chronotimer is the carries. As distending empty mounts they outwardly separate the tie from the case. This makes a specialized, cutting edge, and lightweight impression — an unquestionable visual appearance. The holes among case and tie take into consideration looking at your wrist, yet I didn’t notice this to be distracting.
The next visuals that stand out for you are the brilliant white lists and hands. The hour and moment hands are somewhat burrowed out to incorporate the design of the hauls with the showcase. The combination of brilliant files and a matte dial gives the visual impression of a dashboard. This is escalated by the design of the recessed aggregators that show passed minutes (at 12 o’clock) and hours (at 6 o’clock). The similarity to a dashboard is a lot more grounded when the chronograph hands are not reset to their zero position.
The little second at nine o’clock is diminished to a running pointer. One of the files of this marker is somewhat heavier, so you may utilize it as a kind of perspective to set the time precisely. There is a date window at four o’clock that nearly goes unnoticed. The opening is little, there is no casing, the foundation is a similar tone as the dial, and the textual style is equivalent to on the remainder of the dial. Perfect!
The rectangular chronograph pushers are eminently coordinated into the state of the case. The way that just one side of these pushers juts from the case doesn’t affect convenience. The strong, knurled screw-down crown completes the energetic part of the watch. The center piece of the case is glass globule impacted, while the top and base pieces are cleaned. Notice the nuanced special visualization made by the cleaned edges of the chronograph pushers. A precious stone for the situation base uncovers the movement.
Even to me, being German, the name of the type in the 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather shows up incredibly Teutonic. In any case, considering the way that this is the main own development from Porsche Design subsequent to offering watches for just about 50 years, it presumably is a legitimate name. To be careful, it is WERK 01.200.
This development was first introduced as the main impetus inside the Chronotimer 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series. That watch was solely offered to proprietors of the vehicle conveying a similar name — a somewhat elite watch surely. Then, the WERK 01.200 showed up in the Chronotimer Flyback Special Edition. The 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather has been the third model to contain this movement.
Porsche Design actually is a design studio and no watch fabricate. The development is worked by Concepto Watch Factory, which is situated in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Porsche Design was intensely engaged with the design, and that is obvious to see. There are a ton of dark surfaces obvious through the showcase back of the Chronotimer. These are covered with matte dark covering and are flung with little Porsche Design logos.
A more critical gander at the WERK 01.200
The most remarkable piece of this development is the dark rotor that conveys a wavering weight made of tungsten. Tungsten is a material infrequently utilized in watch developments. Machining tungsten is a digit complicated, on the grounds that it has the most elevated liquefying purpose of every compound component, and tungsten swarf effectively bursts into flames. Yet, tungsten is hefty (nearly as substantial as gold), which is clearly the most fundamental trait of a swaying weight. Also, it is moderately cheap.
The design of this development is deliberately like that of the ETA 7750. Thusly, the WERK 01.200 can without much of a stretch supplant a 7750 in existing watch models should the Swatch Group at long last quit giving ETA developments outside the Swatch Group . At the point when you press the chronograph pushers, you quickly feel that it’s anything but a 7750. The pushers have a milder activity, like a segment wheel-controlled chronograph.
The completing of the development parts is somewhat modern. There are no customary improvements, just a basic clean. In any case, the components are sufficiently refined to warrant a COSC certification.
Strap and clasp
The 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather comes on a dull brown calf leather lash with careful sewing in a similar tone. The leather utilized for this tie is equivalent to for the seats in Porsche vehicles. While this may be an energizing component for aficionados of Porsche vehicles, I don’t think that its an ideal arrangement. The leather is all in all too difficult to be truly comfortable, and this doesn’t change over the long haul. Yet, in any event it looks good.
The tie is shut by means of a twofold collapsing catch made of titanium that has a similar matte surface as the glass dot shot pieces of the case. Sadly, the complete collapsing catch is very thick. The bearing region of the collapsing component within the tie is small. While laying your wrist on a work area or on a chair’s arm, the little zone of the collapsing system presses into your wrist. At the point when I wore the Chronotimer at the workplace, a little while later, it hurt such a lot of that I needed to take the watch off. I never had this sort of issue with some other watch.
I asked Porsche Design for a pin clasp for this watch. The awful news is: There is no pin clasp. The uplifting news is: You can segregate the whole collapsing component from the collapsing catch and join the excess clasp straightforwardly to the tie as though there had never been any collapsing mechanism.
Detaching the collapsing clasp
So I did. Be that as it may, there is a precarious little detail in segregating the collapsing system. The part that is joined to the tie is held set up by two little pins. The two pins have screw spaces. Just one of these pins can be unscrewed. The other pin is fixed to the collapsing system. At the point when you attempt to unscrew the fixed pin with drive, you will harm the top of this pin. I attempted to unscrew the fixed pin, and I harmed it. A short time later, I understood that you can remove the lash with just one pin removed.
The point that truly bothers me here is that the unscrewable pin recommends a capacity that doesn’t exist. Also, this is a design from the company whose philosophy is, “Form follows function”! I’d like to have a discussion with the designer who made this collapsing mechanism.
The lash is surprisingly joined to the case. The edges of the lash meet the carries flush, rather than sitting between them likewise with customary hauls. This makes an alternate look and contributes a great deal to the generally cutting edge appearance of the watch. The disadvantage is that you can just utilize exclusive ties from Porsche Design. The pins that interface the lash to the case are not spring bars. These appear to work also to the sort of pins that associate the connections of a wristband. With standard watchmaking devices, I wasn’t ready to withdraw the lash. This implies that you not exclusively can exclusively append unique Porsche Design lashes to the 1919 Chronotimer, you even need this to be finished by Porsche Design service.
The 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather displays a particular design. A fruitful blend of advanced, rich, and lively perspectives, that regardless breaker into a limited by and large appearance. In 2019 it won the Red Dot Design Award as “Best of the Best.”
Porsche Design’s restrictive development is persuading. The chronograph capacities work shockingly well, and it gives great exactness. The lash looks great, and, in combination with the mark carries, it is answerable for the particular look of this watch. All things considered, the leather could be more comfortable. The answer for join the lash to the drags could be more buyer situated. The collapsing catch, despite the fact that by and large viewed as a more comfortable and secure arrangement than a pin clasp, for this situation, I see as unwearable. Luckily, you can change it into a pin buckle.
The cost 0f about €6,000 I find defended for this particularly gorgeous flyback chronograph made of titanium and dependent on a restrictive development. To investigate the universe of Porsche Design, head to the brand’s .